stevewhite

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Viewing 3 posts - 16 through 18 (of 18 total)
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  • in reply to: Iron toilet flange #3189
    stevewhite
    Participant

    Hey Edward,

    Ya, they definitely hacked that joist all they way through!

    So I would probably take a grinder and cut the flange in a few places to the pipe (being careful not to cut the actual 90 degree elbow) and then smack the flange off with a hammer.  It should come off fairly easily since its soldered with lead.

    Then install the plywood, tile underlayment, and tile closely to the waste pipe.

    After tile you could then install a push-in type flange that will sit on top of the tile (you will need to drill holes through tile to anchor screws into subfloor)

    I like these push in type since it has adjustment screws to tighten the rubber gasket to caste iron

    https://amzn.to/2trmoaW

     

    Just curious, are you planning to replace the galvanized water supplies everywhere? I would recommend that while you have everything opened up.  Galvanized will eventually fail….

     

    thanks

    steve

     

    in reply to: Bathtub/floor transition #3087
    stevewhite
    Participant

    I don’t blame you not wanting to use those wood screws for this!

    Gluing and screwing would be the best method, but gluing and nailing would be adequate.  I personally always end up nailing and never had an issue.  Much faster that way. But I do use a framing nailer…..not a trim gun.

    If you do use screws I would still use deck screws.  they have them in 1 5/8″.    A bit longer than you need them….but shouldn’t hurt anything

     https://www.homedepot.com/p/Deck-Mate-8-x-1-5-8-in-Star-Flat-Head-Wood-Deck-Screws-1-lb-Pack-DM158T1/300884062

     

    in reply to: Water Proofing #3073
    stevewhite
    Participant

    Good question Jake,

    You really could do either one, But thinset may be easier and is all thats really needed.  As long as you have 2″ of overlap on the wedi pan, you will be good to go.

     

Viewing 3 posts - 16 through 18 (of 18 total)