Jeff PattersonAh man, sorry about that. I apologize. Sometimes we answer questions via email and I wasn’t sure if Steve did that for you. We’re still getting use to the new Forum. CONGRATS on your training!!! Huge high five and accomplishment, you should be proud. Always feel free to post here or send us emails, either is good.
Steve started a mammoth project right about the time you posted your question, so I’m sure he just missed it.
I saw that video you mentioned and many professionals disagree; tile floors should be very difficult to remove, and in fact they should last decades. His assessment doesn’t make sense and is wasteful, i.e. assuming people will want a new floor every 5-10 years.
We recommend setting tile per industry guidelines, TCNA, and ensuring the subfloor doesn’t deflect, there’s an isolation membrane like DITRA (and that is installed per Schluter directions), and tiles are backbuttered for 95-100% thin-set mortar coverage in wet areas. Our buddy Sal DiBlasi doesn’t like that installer, and for good reason, lol
Jeff PattersonHey Anthony, just following up to see how things are going?
Jeff PattersonHey Eden, just following up – did you and Steve discuss this via email? Just want to make sure you got an answer. Sorry for my late response.
Jeff PattersonHey Eden, just following up – did you and Steve discuss this via email? Just want to make sure you got an answer. Sorry for my late response.
Jeff PattersonHey Roger, we discussed this via email, too; but did you have any additional questions?
Jeff PattersonHey Ed, sounds like you have some good projects.
Feel free to post any pictures of the tub drain setup. That way we can be sure if it’s going to be a problem with the new tub. As long as a joist isn’t blocking the drain and you have some access it should be okay.
Adding 2×8 or 2×10 wood to the stud walls will be good for the hand rails. Either toenail or screw them with 3″ deck screws. It’s best to get all the walls open in the tub surround, install the tub, then add the blocking. That way you can be sure it’s at the right height for the person using it.
Jeff PattersonThanks Steve for asking, we have several videos showing different tips. Typically we recommend using a corner bead and applying waterproofing over top that if it extends into the shower. Do you have any pictures of your shower?
Jeff PattersonSo, is the tub level and the floor out of level by that 1″?
Jeff PattersonIt’s a personal preference. I tend to think there’s not too big a difference between 22 and 24 inches. And the extra 2x3s will give you a nicer look with the tile. If you’re getting a custom door I’d lean toward the plan you put forth. I used a PVC trim in that tub so that there wouldn’t be any wood rot.
Jeff PattersonYes, Liquid Nails for the wood. Thanks for keeping us posted!!
Jeff PattersonGreat question, you can add 2x6s to the joists at those ends. You’ll have toenail or screw them to the joists using 3″ deck screws. That will give you the support for the new 3/4″ sub subfloor required for the Wedi Fundo Ligno. Looks like your framing is in good shape and there’s no water damage!
Jeff PattersonAwesome pictures Ward and we’re super excited to see your project take shape.
For that size bathroom you might want just a dedicated vent fan that can pull all the steam from the shower outside. We do have a video with Bill White in the Electrical section where he talks about the different vent fans and Pros/Cons. I know he mentions those dual recessed light/fans but can’t remember his opinion, lol.
Converting to PEX is very easy and we do it for many projects. Just check your local plumbing codes to be sure you can use PEX. Many of the mixing valves will easily adapt to PEX as well.
Jeff PattersonYes, standard sizes are 1/2″ and 3/4″ for water supply lines.
If you want a more powerful stream of water in the shower, 3/4″ is better than 1/2″ and we recommend that if opting for body sprays.
