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Replacing Old Shutoff Valves

Bathroom Repair Tutor – Revised 120922 › Forums › Plumbing › Replacing Old Shutoff Valves

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    • June 3, 2018 at 6:22 pm #3142
      ChrisFeltus
      Participant

      See attached image of shut off valve for the questions.

      Question 1:

      If I were to cut off just past the old existing shut off valve, I would have roughly 1.25″ left of copper pipe. However, that is assuming I would be perfectly flush with the autocut tool, which probably won’t happen – in reality I probably have a little less to work with. Unless I got a hacksaw or something and cut as close as possible.

      On the sharkbite website it states for a standard 1/2″ pipe you only need 15/16″ of depth to install their shut off valve. And if I get 1.25″ or a little less after cutting, that meets the specification. Do I have enough room on this to install a sharkbite?

      Question 2:

      The main water line running to the sink also appears to be copper, I am not going to replace the sinks just yet as I want a completely new stand alone vanity. But in the mean time can I just remove the old water line and replace it with a newer braided metal water line? 

      Is this even something I should attempt to DIY?

    • June 3, 2018 at 6:23 pm #3143
      ChrisFeltus
      Participant

      Here is a larger picture of the shutoff valve. Click it to see it larger.

      View post on imgur.com

    • June 3, 2018 at 9:13 pm #3144
      ChrisFeltus
      Participant

      One quick update, if I am worried about enough length being left behind after cutting the pipe, could I use 1/2″ copper pipe coupling to join another small piece of copper pipe, and then attach the shark bite to the attached piece if I need the extra length?

      This was something I just thought about. Sorry for multiple posts, I attempted to edit the original but it seems you are unable to do so after enough time has elapsed.

    • June 4, 2018 at 11:44 am #3148
      Steve White
      Spectator

      Hey Chris

      I would recommend heating the valve up and remove, and then use a pipe sand paper or mesh to clean up the solder (you may have to continue to heat the solder and immediately sand to smooth out and remove as much solder as possible.)

      Then a sharkbite fitting will work fine (obviously wait till the pipe cools)

       

      Otherwise, if you already cut the copper, a copper coupling would work, but would force the valve to be pretty far out of wall

      If you have 2″ of pipe left, that is usually plenty of room to push on a sharkbite valve

      hope this helps

      steve

    • June 17, 2018 at 8:22 pm #3179
      ChrisFeltus
      Participant

      Hey Steve, I haven’t cut the pipe yet. As far as heating it up, could I just use something like a MAPP gas torch and apply heat directly to the old shutoff valve? Then use a pair of channel lock pliers to remove it?

       

       

    • June 17, 2018 at 8:58 pm #3180
      Steve White
      Spectator

      Hey Chris

      That would be the best way! After the valve is off, you could then heat the pipe up a little and sand any thick amounts of solder off the pipe

      Once cooled, you’ll be set for the the push-on type valves

       

    • July 7, 2018 at 12:01 pm #3199
      BarrettButler
      Participant

      Have you done this valve yet ?

      Advanced DIY guy here. It should go without saying , but make sure once you shut off the water main that you try and back drain all the water out of the valve and or remove that faucet line to be able to vacuum or high pressure air residual water out of the valve or your reheat removal may be problematic.

      I’m going to be doing nearly the same thing for a floor based toilet supply soon.

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